1/3/2024 0 Comments Julius sumner miller clock![]() ![]() Surely if the starter motor was replaced a lot of these basic things would have been checked or overcome, such as burnt contact in solenoid (a recognised problem it seems), ie this and some of Plendo's points below. Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 1st of April 2014 10:55:09 PM I would be removing the connection from the starter solenoid, and then running a wire from that solenoid starter terminal and just touch it on the + on the battery after making sure it was in park with the hand brake on.I am a cowboy too David. If I was you I would be finding an old style mechanic (one over 50 that know how things work) and asking them to jury rig a starter switch circuit, run with that for a while and see if it solves the problem. It could be the power circuit breaking down, but this is extremely unlikely, as the type of power passing though it, a break that sometimes worked would be causing smoke that you would notice. (I am a cowboy, that is what i would be doing FIRST).Ģ. It would be really easy for a competent mechanic or auto elec to jury rig a circuit by passing both with a simple push button to eliminate that side of things. It could also be the ignition switch causing the same problem, or the wiring anywhere along the way. It could be a poor connection on the switch circuit, where there is enough connection to start the process, then it breaks down. The symptom you describe of a clicking noise, but nothing more indicates a problem with one of the two circuits feeding the solenoid (it is the solenoid making the clicking sound).ġ. In front of all of this you probably have an immobilizer that cuts off power from the ignition switch, and stops the whole lot dead in tracks. Only time will tell, hope it's a very long time before it does.ĭoug, I think it is time to stand back, and look at it from first principles.Ī starter circuit is simple, you have a switch (the one you turn), that delivers power through a gearbox inhibitor switch (the one that only works in Park and Neutral) to a solenoid, the solenoid (or modern equivalent) amplify the small amount of current going through the two switches and feed power with lots of current to the starter. As my post said in your original thread, it seemed like the starter and to have a better fuel economy, is a good bonus. Lets hope so, as it could get expensive these sorts or problems. If I haven't had a problem in that department for a month I would say PROBLEM SOLVED. Overall I am a happy camper and time will tell if the starter motor was the original problem. The mechanic said let things settle and a couple of tanks of fuel and all should be ok. The only thing is it takes two tries at starting first thing in the morning and then ok. After getting it started I put it in to a mechanic at Penrith and they found the power plug to be loose, so sorted that and as I was also using a lot of fuel check the timing and found it out one notch so adjusted and made some tuning adjustments.Īfter 3 days now the Prado is sort of starting ok and fuel situation improved, looks like an extra 70km per tank minimum at this stage so that's good. All was good until I refuelled last Sunday on my way north and the Prado decided not to start at all. I bit the bullet last Saturday and had the starter motor replaced as it was leaning more to that being the problem. ![]() ![]() For those that didn't read my "Original" thread about the Prado not starting now and then it appeared at first to be the inhibitor switch as when I moved the transmission selector back and forth it started but then it was ok for a week then had the problem again for two weeks then ok for a week. ![]()
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